Saturday, May 30, 2009

Board painting

Like any teenagers, I went from putting stickers on my board to painting in order to express my creativity. ONe thing is sure I would not have been a great artist.

So here on surfline I read a tip from Brad Nadell, founder of Foam E-Z who gives a quick tip:

"The type of paint you want to use is water based Tempera -- this paint can be air-sprayed or air-brushed right onto the foam.

Many people hand-paint boards using sponge brushes, wisk brooms, paint brushes, sponges, and just about anything that will apply paint.

Don't put it on too thick, though. The appropriate thickness is about the consistency of whole milk. Have fun and and let the paint fly."

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Surfing big waves: when leash becomes a liability

Surfline's Nick Carroll replies:

Being leashed in truly big surf can cause a surfer some trauma. Suddenly, the leash's great benefit -- connection to your board -- can mean you're forced to go where your board goes, whether you like it or not. There's nothing quite like an extra 20 or 30 yards of underwater draggage behind your nine-foot gun in what feels like the world's biggest washing machine; it's a bit like those cowboy movies, where they tie the good guy to a horse and drag him around the main street. This effect is enhanced by the heavyweight nature of most big-wave paddle-in boards.

WK believes a leash can only be regarded as a liability when it cannot be removed in a dangerous circumstance. In the past 20 years several surfers have drowned after being held underwater by a combination of a leash wrapped around a rock and a strong current dragging both board and surfer against the leash's pressure. In each case, the current prevented the surfer from being able to reach his leash strap to release it -- interestingly, in no case was the surf particularly big. (The ocean's way stronger than you think, even when the waves don't look murderous.)

Fact is, a leash is only a leash -- it is capable of breaking, and occasionally will under the impact of a seriously big wave. This is not always a bad thing, given the situations outlined above. (Sometimes being freed to swim clear is a true blessing!)

But this fact demands you keep one thing in mind: The leash is not and never was intended as a lifesaving device. It's a convenient way of keeping your board close and ding-free after wipeouts, and serves the added valuable purpose of eliminating the loose-boards-in-the-lineup syndrome -- which can be a profound danger in itself. But! If you're relying on your leash to defend you against weak swimming skills in big surf, there's an easy answer: DON'T GO OUT. It will only end in tears.

Thursday, May 7, 2009


I love The Resistance & True life but since I have not been impressed by Forum films. I just watch the Forever teaser and I like the 70s vibes, kindda of like in the cops series from the 70s ...remember The street of San Fransisco. oH boy I just realized I used to watch this as a kid.

Anyway the teaser looks great and really creative.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

great actors come from the surfing industry

Since the award winning act of Kelly Slater in Baywatch, we have finally a new contender: CJ hobgood.

Mad Clips Teahupoo Tahiti Fantasy Break-Down from josh coville on Vimeo.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Timmy Turner is the man

What a story!!!!

you can also read it on Surfer.

Monday, May 4, 2009

what can you do...when it is flat

I am really confused because the winter season has been really shitty with at best some waist high wave wind chop or chest high closeout...with the summer approaching at full force, I am looking at alternative to get my muscles ready for some hurricane swell.

Well that is the only thing I found which I heard is really good but at this cost I could survive "second thoughts" style for few months except I don't really want to swim in the polio pond.

Vasa ergometer swim bench is close to $1800 so it may not be for everybody because while it increases your strength, it doesn't help you at dodging the recession

Friday, May 1, 2009

Nike 6.0 Lowers

Waves at Trestle are so perfect, each waves is the same which is great to try new tricks, however the crowd factor is brutal.
last time I went there were 15 guys from Reef and other brands doing photoshots, plus a good 25 other ripers.

While I didn't catch the best one, I caught a good fifteen-twenty waves. I love to watch contest over there, it's quite a show.

So here is the Nike 6.0 Lowers Pro contest that started, make sure to check it out.