welll first you need waves, or like me you need to travel a lot:)
1-Small step, one at a time
The common mistake is that guys try to hard for the trick they see in videos. Instead of trying big air, try to release fins first and then small pop,etc... find challenges you can succeed at: your confidence will be hipped up.
2-Don't surf for 10 hours
that's what I sued to do in Barbedos and actually my overall surfing got a hit for the rest of the trip. It's a trip so try to have fun, hang out with friends, go fishing.
3-be a movie star
That's the hard part is to find someone who can film..your girlfriend maybe? be sure to take her to diner that night because she must have been really bored trying to find you in the seal looking crowd.
4- You are not Hercule but almost
That's right try to always go in the water with a challenge, a trick in mind
5-What is Fun
is not the result and the way how you got there. This is not a quote from Buddha but if he was a surfer, I am sure he would have said this kind of stuffs. Enjoy your progress and don't be frustrated.
bonus: 6- remember rules of priorities and be friendly to others...watch your attitude
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